Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is very effective in fighting wrinkles and improving complexion, making it a star active ingredient in anti-aging and acne treatments. But is it really risk-free? The use of retinoids in cosmetics requires an adaptation phase to avoid adverse effects , particularly on sensitive skin: irritation, redness or even increased sensitivity to the sun. Find out the potential dangers of retinol , as well as the best advice for use to avoid allergic reactions on all skin types.
What are the side effects of retinol?
Common side effects of retinoids include redness, irritation, peeling, dryness, increased sensitivity to the sun, and itching.
Frequent irritation and redness
Retinol can cause different reactions when you first start using it:
- skin irritations
- appearance of redness
- peeling skin
- burning sensations
This is a completely normal phenomenon when starting a retinol treatment! The skin simply adapts to this potential irritant. As applications continue, potential irritations and slight redness fade and the complexion becomes more even, smooth and flawless.
Dry skin
Dry skin is also a very common side effect after using retinol.
Increased sensitivity to the sun
Retinol accelerates cell renewal, which makes it very effective against the signs of aging. But this is also what explains why the skin becomes more sensitive to the sun: the skin's protective barrier is weakened, making it more vulnerable to external aggressions and oxidative stress. This is called sensitization: the skin is no longer able to protect itself against the sun's rays. The risks are:
- the appearance of sunburn
- premature aging of the skin
This is why it is recommended to apply retinol only in the evening.
Itching
These side effects are generally due to the powerful exfoliating action of retinol in its active form, which accelerates cell renewal and weakens the skin barrier by getting rid of dead cells.
Acne Pimples and Blemishes
Some people notice the appearance of pimples and blemishes after introducing retinol into their routine. This phenomenon is called "purging" and is due to temporary inflammation and can last a few weeks: it is a risk of normal reaction caused by the skin adapting.
Retinol allergy
In very rare cases, retinol may cause an allergic reaction. Consult a dermatologist promptly if you experience swelling of the lips or eyelids, hives, and intense itching.
Who should avoid retinol?
Retinol is generally tolerated on all skin types, except for very sensitive skin and people taking acne medication.
Pregnant and breastfeeding women
Active retinol and other retinoids (such as retinal and retinoic acid) are strongly advised against during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Sensitive and atopic skin
Very sensitive skin often has difficulty tolerating retinol, as it can cause redness, irritation and a burning sensation. This is particularly the case for:
- Skin prone to redness (rosacea, couperose)
- very thin and dry skin
- hyper-reactive skin that reacts easily to cosmetics
If you want to try forms of vitamin A despite sensitive skin type, opt for a gentle formula (e.g. encapsulated or combined with soothing agents like niacinamide).
In case of skin pathologies
People with inflammatory skin conditions (eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis) should avoid retinol or consult a dermatologist before use.
In case of acne treatment
Medical acne treatments, especially those based on isotretinoin (Roaccutane) or benzoyl peroxide, are incompatible with retinol because they make the skin extremely sensitive.
How to use retinol safely?
Start with a low concentration
It is recommended to start with low concentrations of retinol (up to 0.3%) to assess skin tolerance. Use retinol 1-2 times a week at first, then increase gradually. Apply only a few drops of product: retinol is a highly concentrated active ingredient.
Regular application of retinol is reserved for skin already accustomed to this active ingredient.
Retinol Before/After Results: See all the effects of retinol on your skin type.
Moisturize your skin
Adequate hydration is crucial when using retinol to minimize side effects.
Perform a retinol tolerance test
A skin tolerance test is recommended before applying to the face. Apply one or two drops to the inside of your wrist and observe your skin's reaction. If the skin reaction is too severe, do not use the product in question on the face.
Do not combine it with exfoliating acids
It is strongly advised not to combine retinol with chemical exfoliants or exfoliating acids such as AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), glycolic acid , and vitamin C.
Protect your skin from the sun
Retinol is photosensitizing , meaning it makes the skin more sensitive to UV rays. It exfoliates the skin, making it fragile in the face of sunlight and prone to irritation. This is why it is best to use it in the evening and to avoid this cosmetic active ingredient in the event of prolonged sun exposure. Here is an example of a skincare routine including a retinol-based treatment:
- Morning: Cleanse the skin, apply a moisturizer and an SPF 50 sunscreen such as our Sun Care SPF30-UVA50 .
- In the evening: Remove make-up and cleanse the skin, apply a hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid and an anti-aging night treatment with retinol .
Find all ourskin care products for a complete and effective skincare routine incorporating retinol, hyaluronic acid and innovative active ingredients against the signs of aging.
Should you avoid retinol?
Retinol's bad reputation is often due to the inappropriate use of this active ingredient in cosmetic care. It is therefore essential to integrate it gradually and to follow certain precautions, such as protecting your skin from the sun during the day. By following these tips, retinol can become a real ally to improve the appearance of wrinkles on mature skin, smooth skin texture, fight against the first wrinkles, acne or hyperpigmentation.
