Still little known a few years ago, azelaic acid is now highly prized in cosmetics due to its exfoliating action and its many benefits for the skin. This natural active ingredient has proven its effectiveness against acne, pigment spots and rosacea. Testimonials from users of azelaic acid before and after testify to the amazing results on the reduction of imperfections and redness. But how to use it properly to benefit from all its benefits? Is it suitable for all skin types? Discover in this article practical advice for integrating it into your skincare routine.
Scientific studies: What results can be expected before/after using azelaic acid?
Several scientific studies have analyzed the action of azelaic acid before and after use, allowing to establish real effects on the skin.
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Acne treatment: 50% reduction in acne lesions after 12 weeks of regular application. Source: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10898830/
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Reduction of pigment spots and brown spots due to melasma. Source: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10339666/?utm_source=chatgpt.com
- Decrease in redness and inflammatory lesions due to rosacea after 12 weeks of use Source: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16924055/
What is azelaic acid?
Naturally present in wheat, barley or rye, azelaic acid is part of the dicarboxylic acid family: it is increasingly used in the formulations of beauty and care products.
There are several reasons for the craze surrounding this active ingredient in cosmetics and dermatology:
- It is less irritating than AHA/BHA and retinoids.
- It is also suitable for sensitive skin.
- It can be synthesized to achieve an optimal concentration level.
- It has very versatile properties: action on acne, hyperpigmentation, complexion radiance and skin texture.
What are the benefits of azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is an essential active ingredient in cosmetics: here are all its benefits for the skin.
Acne treatment
- Reduction of pimples and blackheads : it prevents the accumulation of dead cells and the obstruction of pores, thus preventing the appearance of imperfections.
- Its antibacterial action limits the proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes bacteria , responsible for inflammatory acne.
- Anti-inflammatory : it calms the inflammation associated with pimples.
- Reduction of post-acne scars : by promoting cell renewal, it helps to reduce the marks left by imperfections.
Fight against hyperpigmentation
- Reduction of brown spots : its lightening power acts as well on post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (acne scars), as on melasma or spots caused by the sun.
- Action on tyrosinase : by inhibiting this key enzyme in the production of melanin, it prevents the formation of new spots.
- Brighter complexion : its gentle and gradual action helps to unify the skin without damaging it.
Reduced redness
- Rosacea : it reduces persistent redness and small visible vessels (erythrosis, couperose).
- Skin irritations : it has a soothing and anti-inflammatory action, making it an excellent choice for reactive skin.
Improved skin texture
Thanks to its mild keratolytic properties , azelaic acid gently exfoliates the skin without irritating it, promoting smoother, more radiant skin and a gradual healthy glow.
Antioxidant action
- Protection of the skin against damage caused by free radicals (pollution, UV rays, tobacco, etc.).
- Prevention of oxidative stress : it helps slow down the appearance of signs of aging on the face and around the eyes (age spots, brown marks, wrinkles, etc.).
To learn more about the benefits of azelaic acid on the skin, check out our in-depth article: the effects of azelaic acid on the skin
How to use azelaic acid safely?
Frequency of use
It is recommended to apply azelaic acid twice daily to clean skin washed with a mild cleanser. Azelaic acid is non-photosensitizing, allowing application in the morning or evening.
Dosage and acid concentration
Medical concentrations range from 15 to 20%, while cosmetics typically contain between 3 and 10% azelaic acid.
Our Anti-Redness Clarifying Treatment contains 12% Azelaic Acid , an optimal concentration that effectively targets redness, pigment spots, inflammatory acne and uneven skin tone on combination skin.
Which azelaic acid products should you choose according to your skin type?
Oily or acne-prone skin : opt for gel-based treatments with light, mattifying coverage, which penetrate more quickly into oily skin.
Combination skin : You can turn to serums with azelaic acid. Their fluid formula is suitable for combination to normal skin and does not weigh down the skin.
Dry or sensitive skin : Cream-based treatments are particularly suitable for dry skin. Azelaic acid creams prevent dehydration thanks to their thicker formula.
Skin prone to redness or in case of rosacea : a gentle cream or serum, combined with soothing active ingredients such as niacinamide, is ideal for nourishing and protecting the skin while strengthening the skin barrier.
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Precautions and advice for use
Ideal skincare routine: which active ingredients should you combine it with?
- Niacinamide : to reduce inflammation, soothe redness and improve the skin barrier.
- Hyaluronic acid : to hydrate and enhance the soothing action, especially for sensitive and combination skin.
- BHA (salicylic acid), lactic acid or glycolic acid : to combat clogged pores and acne with exfoliating acids, while being minimally irritating.
- Centella Asiatica : to soothe the skin and enhance the anti-inflammatory effect of azelaic acid.
Nooance-Paris offers you a selection of facial treatments containing azelaic acid and other innovative active ingredients to integrate into your routine for a beautiful skin effect.
What product should not be mixed with azelaic acid?
Avoid combining azelaic acid with overly concentrated AHA/BHA (risk of irritation), retinoids (retinol, tretinoin, etc.) or pure vitamin C. Instead, opt for alternating applications: for example, an azelaic acid treatment in the morning and a retinol treatment at night.
Does Azelaic Acid Have Side Effects?
Azelaic acid is well tolerated on all skin types, even sensitive skin. But improper use can lead to irritation, dryness or redness. Always use sunscreen during the day and consult a dermatologist if side effects persist.
